International Journal of Textile Science
p-ISSN: 2325-0119 e-ISSN: 2325-0100
2017; 6(2): 21-33
doi:10.5923/j.textile.20170602.01

Tania Aktek1, A. K. M. Malekul Millat2
1Textile Engineering Department, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh
2Knit Asia Limited, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Correspondence to: Tania Aktek, Textile Engineering Department, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
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This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution International License (CC BY).
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Reactive dyes, the most majestic dyes, lead the cotton dyeing industries still today as they exhibit versatile amenities such as full ranges of shade, convenient fastness properties and ease of application. Implications of these dyes demand a great deal of electrolyte to subdue the electric charge repulsion between dye and fiber. But use of high amount of electrolyte and unfixed dye contributes to environment pollution among which salt cannot be exhausted or destroyed. The usage of salt can be eliminated by either the use of cationized reactive dye or modification of cotton. Notable achievements are found for modification of cotton by treating with chitosan, cationic starch, cationic monomer, polymer and dendrimer. Recently attention has been given on preparation of cationic reactive dye to avoid using modifying agent and attained outcomes met the current market demand. This paper focuses on both approaches with highlighting the most recent trends adopted and recommends about most effective, economic and environmental benign process and also proposes future prospects in this field.
Keywords: Salt free dyeing, Cationic reactive dye, Modification, Cotton fiber, Chitosan
Cite this paper: Tania Aktek, A. K. M. Malekul Millat, Salt Free Dyeing of Cotton Fiber- A Critical Review, International Journal of Textile Science, Vol. 6 No. 2, 2017, pp. 21-33. doi: 10.5923/j.textile.20170602.01.
![]() | Figure 1. Formation of cross linking of cotton polymer with chitosan [12] |
![]() | Figure 2. a) Formation of covalent bond between cotton and water soluble chitosan [16] b) Formation of ether group between cellulose and PEG contained in chitosan [18] |
![]() | Figure 3. Comparison of effect of concentration of CNS and CHS on dye fixation [21] |
![]() | Figure 4. Operation process of modifiedcotton with cationic starch [22] |
![]() | Figure 5. Used dendrimer [23] |
![]() | Figure 6. a) Preparation of MAPTAC grafted cellulose [25] b) Preparation of HBP-NH2 grafted cotton fiber [26] |
![]() | Figure 7. Different cationic monomer a[5]b[31]c[36]d[37]e[38]f[39] |
electron of unquaternized pyridine rings in modifying agent, but also ion-dipole interaction formed between positively charged nitrogen atoms of pyridinum rings and lone pair of electrons on the oxygen atom of hydroxyl groups of cellulose. The cationic sites of polymer enabled the anionic dye to attract in absence of salt. Moreover, dyes were fixed with amino functional nucleophiles at neutral pH so that dye hydrolysis could be reduced. Besides, both pretreatments and dyeing were carried out in exhaust method owing to higher molecular weight and substantivity of polymer. Obtained wash fastness displayed excellent after one wash that enables to save water, time and also for reducing hydrolysis cost also saved. Ultimately, it offered an eco-friendly dyeing process.Cationic diblock copolymerHan et al., [42] introduced cationic diblock copolymer (Fig. 8a), a quaternary ammonium compound executed from [2-methacryloyloxy) ethyl] trimethylammonium chloride to produce cationized fiber so that it could replace the use of salt. Pretreatment with PEO45-MeDMA diblock copolymer was carried out at 60°C for 1 hour in exhaust method continued dyeing at 60°C for 45 min at 1:10 liquor ratio. Findings showed that up to 5 g/l concentration of copolymer, dye uptake increased due to formation of ionic bond between dye and fiber. When concentration exceeds 10g/l dye uptake reduced as they reduced free dye. Moreover, sorption isotherm showed Langmuir-type sorption mechanism which gave strong evidence of ionic bond.Poly (Vinylamine chloride) Ma et al., [43] inaugurated another polymer contained primary amino group had been reported as surface modifier of cotton because of presence of large number of cationic sites (NH3+ Cl̄) simplified for encouraging salt-free dyeing. Particularly, pad-air dry-bake method was effective to apply PVAmHCl (Fig. 8b) evenly and bind firmly to cotton where padding involved 5 g/l PVAmHCl applied by 2 dips and 2 nips process with a wet pick up of 80% at pH 7 subsequently baked at 100°C for 10 min in a baker. Further, effect of concentration concluded that exhaustion increase up to 10g/l, after exceeding it exhaustion decreased as a result of weak bonding between cellulose and cationic polymer due to higher amount of PVAmHCl created repulsion force within polymers. Exhaustion, fixation, color fastness to wash and rubbing of exhaust dyed pretreated cotton showed excellent properties which increased its commercial importance. Besides, gained Langmuir type adsorption isotherm confirmed the ionic attraction between cationic (NH3+ Cl̄) of PVAmHCl and anionic reactive dye.Tertiary amine cationic polyacrylamideThough above three compound showed a great deal of advantages, they also gave different disadvantages such as the presence of primary and secondary amine could change the hue of dyes, polymeric quaternary ammonium salts affected the wet fastness properties of dyed cotton strong due to electrostatic attraction between fiber and hydrolyzed dye. The aforementioned obstacles could be eliminated by using Tertiary amine cationic polyacrylamide (Fig. 8c) employed by Xiaoxu et al., [44]. Dip-pad-bake method was employed to modify cotton so that it could form electrostatic interaction with cotton during exhaust dyeing at 20°C. Optimum condition found here for preparation was immerging the sample at 20°C for 2 min padding mangle with pick up% of 80%, subsequently baked at 100°C for 5 min. It was found fixation, exhaustion and reactivity of dyes depended on appropriate molecular mass (M W = 1.1X 104 g.mol-1) and concentration of TACPAM. Higher molecular mass resulted in higher exhaustion, but lower fixation as higher molecular mass of modifying agent affected the action between treated cotton and dye and penetrate ability of dye. Achieved result suggested that the dye ability like color strength, fixation and fastness properties are marketed standard. Polyamino carboxylic acidRecently a compound named Polyamino carboxylic acid (Fig. 8d) was used by Ameri Dehabadi et al., [45] for above mentioned purpose which contained two functional group named carboxyl group and amine groups. Carboxyl group involved to form ester linkage with cellulose and protonation of amino group helped for creating cationized cotton. Fabric was pretreated using exhaustion and pad-dry-cure technique subsequently dyed with exhaust method. Dyeing performance like color strength of treated cotton fabric was 3 times higher than that of untreated cotton and also washing and rubbing fastness were not affected.![]() | Figure 8. Various types of cationic polymer a[42]b[43]c[44]d[45] |
![]() | Figure 9. Aforementioned structure of cationic reactive dye (Dye1[46]Dye2[47]Dye3[48]Dye4[49]Dye5[50, 48]Dye6[51]Dye7[52]Dye8 [48]) |
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